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Looked through the archive on this and couldn't find out how exactly this was done. I want to rout the back strip not join it. So I'm assumeing you set up a straight edge and slide the router down the area. What kind of bit do you use so no "tear out" is done? Do you make several passes till you have your width or one swipe with a bit to the width of the back strip? Can someone show a jig for this. Can I use a Foredom machine w/Precision Router Base? Or a laminate trimmer?
Dave

Dave, if I were you I'd set up two fences. One for each side of the route. Use a down cut spiral bit and do it in one operation. If you start moving things like fences, there's a pretty good chance that you won't end up with a straight cut and you'll have unsightly gaps.

Dave-
I agree 100% with Paul about not moving or adjusting any fences for this, though I don't speak with nearly the experience of Paul.
One trick that has been posted before and is also in some of the books is to use tape (masking tape) on the fence. If you are using a two-fence system, you can start with tape on the fences and remove if you need to make the slot a little wider. If you are using a single fence you can add or subtract tape to move the router a bit to enlarge the slot.
I had a lot of problems with rosettes and back inlays when I made the slot too tight and used glue which swelled the inlay. I've recently started using polyurethane glue for this- it's very slippery and it also doesn't seem to swell the inlay.
Of course, if you do need to tighten things up a bit, hot hide glue or similar can sometimes swell up inlays which are often compressed during manufacture.

John

Heres how I do it.

1. Clamp straight edge along one side of join.
2. Select a cutter NARROWER than the back strip. Ie DONT aim to cut the channel in one pass.
3. Make a pass and then add masking tape to the sttaight edge and make another pass.
4. Continue making passes, checking fit of backstrip and then adding masking tape to straight edge until yoi get a good fit.

Important tip.....do a test cut in scrap to get depth of cut right. I put in my back strips before cutting out back so I do test route on the back Im working on clear of the work area. I usually use a 4 or 5 mm 1/4 shank straight cutter in a full size router (Trend T5).